Samco silicone hoses. Radiator Hoses. Most radiator hoses are now discontinued by Yamaha. Available in Blue and Black. These are the best quality replacement hoses you can buy.


Offset Front Sprockets. Certain sizes kept in stock or available to order. Alloy Kickstarter. An original equipment alloy kickstarter, brand new and mated to your kickstarter knuckle.

Smaller, lighter and better looking than the original. Billet Oil Filler Cap. Lightened Flywheel. Lightening the flywheel gives better acceleration and reduces crank loads, therefore giving better crank life whilst improving engine performance and pick up.

fahron tuning

Two levels of lightening, one for ultimate reliability and better performance and one for ultimate weight saving, recommended for race applications only. Clear Clutch Conversions. Started out as a cross between a gimmick, and a practical way of adjusting the clutch, without draining the oil and coolant.

Modifications are to your own clutch cover and involve CNC machining a hole in the cover, and an O ring groove, supplying and 10mm Lexan cover with O rings and bolts to suit.

LC Copper head gasket. Re-usable and cheaper than Yamaha. Water Pump Cover.

fahron tuning

Designed as a direct replacement for OE, but with a drain plug, to allow you to drain the coolant system from the lowest point. This cover will prevent the mess of spilt coolant all over the floor when the coolant is drained. A quick and easy solution, CNC machined from billet H30 aluminium. The cover is supplied in a machined finish and can be anodised to suit your bike.

Supplied with Stainless Steel fittings. Clear Water Pump Cover. Race Water Pump Cover. As above, but manufactured from thicker material to allow cooling fins to be added. This cover will reduce the temperature of the coolant in hard running conditions. Race or Track. Oil Pump Blanking Plate. If you choose to run your bike on premix rather than use the stock auto lube system then the oil pump can be removed, and its location blanked off with one of these.Classic Motorcycle Racing Forum.

Home Help Search Login Register. Colin Western Full Member Sr. Member Posts: Is there any chance anybody is going to Ron Phillips place before Cadwell? Is so could they pick something up for me please.


Spen Administrator Hero Member Posts: I'm about 40 miles away, if nobody else can help, I can have a ride over. What needs collecting? Remember you and all men are standing on the shoulders of giants.

Quote from: ken platt on April 25,PM. Has Ron said the job is Done. Mr Platt, it's been a busy day building bikes for me today, hence the late reply. Ron has a crank, barrels and heads that I left with him ages ago. I'll get your number off Spike and give you a call. Spen thanks for your offer as well. Much appreciated. Ron ''Manyana''' Philips lol. I have no tickets as yetand if they do not arrive tomorrow I will not be at Cadwell.

fahron tuning

Quote from: ken platt on May 01,AM.Pole position: unknown Fastest lap: Lauda in 8. Distance: 2 x 8 hours, with a pause of 8 hours in between Average speed: unknown Weather: drizzle, rain Ruleset: Group 2 and Group 4 Car info: Cars. This was for safety reasons, most accidents happened in the early morning, but also to reduce the noise level for the inhabitants close to the ring. He shared his car with Han Akersloot, an experienced Dutch touring car driver normally associated with Ford.

Muir started as last after a change of plugs and managed to overtake 72 cars in the first lap - without damaging his own car.

After two hours the order is Lauda, Heyer, Faltz and Muir - only these cars are in the same lap. But now the drizzle changes into rain, none withstanding this the lead cars are still on slicks. Muir comes in with ignition problems and changes to intermediates.

Then, a BMW driver becomes nervous when Heyer closes in. He spins, and Heyer crashes into the barriers trying to avoid him. The damage is considerable, and two repairs move the car down the order, at eleven the car is listed in position 64 - but is still in the race. Muir again has ignition troubles but can continue. The works Capri still manages to come in third.I got the yawns searching for interesting bikes in the U.

This one has had a semi restoration but apparently is still wearing original bodywork with original paint. Would it have resembled the X in any way? It would dress up any Kawi collection. Does this thing not have a Mad Max element to it? The Australian with no gas kind, not the Italian with plenty. As far as I can tell, they are kind of an Italian version of Harris or Spondon.


I have no idea as to what series the bikes were run in. This seller has quite a few high end former race bikes for sale if you are looking to lighten your wallet. Simply nasty! You might not be invited back to your local track day after letting everyone enjoy that symphony. Asking price is 12, GBP and you can see more pictures here. Lastly, this Spondon framed cc Yamaha caught my eye. Apparently it was purpose built for an Irish cc class back in the day. The bike has since been restored and is now looking for a new home.

Who can fill me in on the Fahron? I love all the different takes on frames back in the two stroke glory days. The starting bid is 2, GBP. A good buddy brought a KR1 into the states a few years back.

He eventualy sold it off to a collector. The bike arrived minus an engine, came separate in tack. Picture after being sold off…. I thought the CL ad was fake at first but I have now ridden it. Fahron Engineering is a well known 2 stroke tuning company in the U. Ron Phillips developed a water cooled kit for the Yamaha RD Get all our new posts delivered to your email automatically. Spam free! Enter your email address:.

Featured Listings. Honda November 28, posted by Ian.By thumperladdieMarch 15, in Classic Trials. Why would you want to use a spacer in the first place? All using a spacer does is lift all the ports and decrease crankcase compression slightly. It's a 2 stroke not a 4 stroke if you havent noticed yes altering the port timing will have a marked difference on the torque and power of an engine but why you would think a spacer under the barrel would be a panacea is beyond me.

I'm with old trials fanatic on this - believe me lowering the compression ratio and changing the porting timing would definitely have been explored by the German engineers at DKW who designed the engine in the first place Many thanks for replies.

Saw a spacer for sale on the Progressive Classics web site and just wondered if anyone had first hand experience. The Bantam racing site has lots of advice and guidance on making a Bantam go faster - without spending pocket money on 'fancy' alloy bits, yet nowhere seems to have even basic guidance on tuning an engine output for trials purposes.

Forks, frame, shocks, gearbox but little else. Ron at Fahron is always busy don't expect a fast turn round. A spacer under the barrell works on some 2 strokes, at least for certain applications. It's not such a bad idea on such engines. Raising the barrell 1mm typically increases total exhaust duration by about 4deg, and increases total transfer duration by 5 to 6deg but reduces inlet duration by about 4deg. It will also reduce secondary compression noticeably but has little effect on primary ie crankcase compression.

And it reduces squish clearance which affects combustion efficiency, alongside the change in C. It's often done by just using an extra base gasket rather than a spacer together with a thinner head gasket, or at least trying that first.

Whether or not it works on a Bantam engine I do not know, but you can get some idea by looking at specs. That looks to me like it may work for trials on a D14 cylinder. Otherwise it would be rather deficient on inlet timing. If using a D14 head C. Many thanks for going to the trouble of explaining everything in an easy to understand manner.

Much appreciated. Have an old George Todd head but for a Stud spacing wrong for a to try to increase comp ratio back to normal.Post by bh. Skip to content. Quick links. Ariel tuning. As yet, I have not set to work on the transfer ports. There is an article on the forum referencing an article in the British Bike Magazine of some years ago written by Barry Hickmott, before I make any further progress I would like to run some questions by some of the members of the forum.

On the title page Barry has provided a sketch of the plan view of the crankcase top. It appears that metal should be removed from the inner transfer ports and not the outer transfer ports, is this correct. And also is the other very useful information provided by Barry also ok as a starting point for me to use.

I have also seen over the years that the Fahron Engineering company in Nottingham is also to provide this kind of tuning. I know the Roger has used Fahron, would it be possible to provide me with a contact number or if possible could I use the Private Message system to get these details.

Regards, David S. Ron is working on a number of Arrow engine projects for customers at the present time. Tel Jess. Re: Ariel tuning Post by bh. The changes he makes to the ports in order to keep the motor flexible but increase power are quite small. Definitely talk to Ron before making any big changes. Brian H. Jump to. Who is online Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests.The 'DX' crank is on the left, the 'E' one on the right.

Doesn't it fit well! You can see the milled slots in the Lab seal too. Two circlip grooves and four peg locating holes. The offset is the same in both chambers, but can be seen more clearly in the RH one. Building a T20 Classic Racer. Please support my sponsors - Click on the logos now! H ere is the front tube, cut to size and ready to braze into position. This was a modification that Suzuki made to later frames and if your frame is late '68?

W hen the engine bolts are tightened up normally, the twin downtubes are pulled together by about 3mm. You must therefore braze it up with the engine firmly bolted in, otherwise you will bend the frame when you tighten it up later! Centre piece not in position yet.

T his pic shows the rear strengthening bars taped into position with insulating tape. The centre bar of the 'H' shape is not yet fitted. This is how the TR frame looked and I think it looks really nice. However, I have been advised by Kevin Strowger that it is far better to use straight bars as that makes a stiffer frame. I'm happy as it is though, particularly as I had just had the tubing bent when he told me!

A ll of the main frame strengthening is in place as are the rear footpeg loops see text below. However, the headstock can't be done until I get my TR replica petrol tank. This will fit onto lugs that will need to be fixed onto plates either side of the headstock. I will then assemble the rolling chassis so that I can work out how to make the fairing fit. This will also involve braizing brackets to the frame.

Only when this is all done can I finally finish off and paint the frame in its final as yet undecided! I f you look closely, you can see how we got around the problem. I re-profiled the loop ends so that the outer edge of the footpeg loops was flush with the outer side of the frame tubes.


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